:root{
  --cream:#FBF6EC; --ink:#2B2117; --ochre:#C87A0A; --gold:#E8A020;
  --lantern:#C6402A; --green:#1F8A5B; --muted:#7A6A52; --card:#FFFDF8;
  --line:#EAD9B8; --shadow:0 2px 14px rgba(120,80,10,.08);
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);
  font-family:Inter,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif;line-height:1.6;font-size:17px}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
.wrap{max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 22px}
.wrap.narrow{max-width:800px}
a{color:var(--ochre);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;line-height:1.15;color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}
h1{font-size:2.5rem;margin:.2em 0 .3em;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h2{font-size:1.8rem;margin:1.6em 0 .4em}
h3{font-size:1.3rem;margin:1.4em 0 .3em}
.muted{color:var(--muted)}
.small{font-size:.85rem}
.eyebrow{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;color:var(--ochre);margin:0}
.lede{font-size:1.2rem;color:#4a3d2c}
.center{text-align:center}
/* header */
.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:50;background:rgba(251,246,236,.94);
  backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.hdr{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:64px}
.logo{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.3rem;color:var(--ink);display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px}
.logo strong{color:var(--ochre)}
.logo:hover{text-decoration:none}
.lantern{width:16px;height:22px;background:radial-gradient(circle at 50% 35%,#F6C453,var(--lantern));
  border-radius:50% 50% 45% 45%/60% 60% 40% 40%;display:inline-block;box-shadow:0 0 10px rgba(230,160,40,.6)}
nav a{color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem;font-weight:500;margin-left:20px}
@media(max-width:720px){
  .hdr{height:auto;flex-wrap:wrap;padding:8px 0 10px;gap:2px 0}
  .logo{font-size:1.05rem;flex:1 0 100%}
  nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:2px 14px;width:100%}
  nav a{margin-left:0;font-size:.82rem}
  .site-header{position:static}
}
/* hero */
.hero{background:linear-gradient(160deg,#FFF4DE 0%,#FBE9CC 55%,#F6DDB0 100%);
  border-bottom:3px solid var(--gold);padding:54px 0 46px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;right:-60px;top:-40px;width:260px;height:260px;
  background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(232,160,32,.35),transparent 70%);border-radius:50%}
.hero h1{font-size:2.9rem;max-width:900px}
@media(max-width:640px){.hero h1{font-size:2rem}h1{font-size:2rem}}
.hero .lede{max-width:760px}
.hero-cta{margin:22px 0 10px;display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.hero-stats{display:flex;gap:34px;margin-top:26px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.hero-stats div{display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.hero-stats b{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:2rem;color:var(--ochre);line-height:1}
.hero-stats span{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:2px}
/* buttons */
.btn{display:inline-block;background:var(--ochre);color:#fff;padding:12px 22px;border-radius:10px;
  font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.btn:hover{background:#b06d08;text-decoration:none}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--ochre);border:1.5px solid var(--ochre);box-shadow:none}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:rgba(200,122,10,.08)}
/* bands */
.band{padding:44px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.band.alt{background:#F7EEDD}
.two{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:30px}
@media(max-width:760px){.two{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
/* toplist / leaderboard */
.toplist{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:14px 0;counter-reset:none}
.toplist li{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;padding:9px 0;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
.tl-rank{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-weight:700;color:#fff;background:var(--gold);
  min-width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:.9rem}
.toplist li:nth-child(-n+3) .tl-rank{background:var(--ochre)}
.toplist a{flex:1;color:var(--ink);font-weight:500}
.tl-score{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-weight:700;color:var(--ochre)}
.lb-img img{width:100%;border-radius:14px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);border:1px solid var(--line)}
/* controls / filters */
.controls{margin:18px 0}
#q{width:100%;padding:13px 16px;border:1.5px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;font-size:1rem;background:#fff}
.filters{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:12px}
.fbtn{border:1.5px solid var(--line);background:#fff;color:var(--ink);padding:7px 14px;
  border-radius:20px;cursor:pointer;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:500}
.fbtn.active{background:var(--ochre);color:#fff;border-color:var(--ochre)}
/* tables */
.ranktable{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin-top:8px;background:transparent}
.ranktable th{text-align:left;font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;
  color:var(--muted);padding:8px 10px;border-bottom:2px solid var(--line)}
.ranktable td{padding:12px 10px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
.c-rank{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-weight:700;color:var(--ochre);font-size:1.1rem;width:40px}
.c-name a{font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}
.c-sub{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:3px}
.c-score b{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.15rem;color:var(--ochre)}
.chips{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:5px}
.chip{font-size:.8rem;padding:3px 9px;border-radius:7px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:#fff;white-space:nowrap;color:var(--ink)}
.chip.t{background:#eaf7ef;border-color:#bfe6cd;color:#176b45}
.chip .n{color:var(--muted)}
.chip b{font-weight:700}
.award{font-size:.68rem;background:var(--gold);color:#fff;padding:2px 7px;border-radius:6px;font-weight:700;vertical-align:middle}
.award.big{display:inline-block;margin:6px 0}
.corr.yes{color:var(--green);font-weight:600;font-size:.78rem}
.corr.no{color:#b08018;font-size:.78rem}
.badge{font-size:.7rem;padding:2px 8px;border-radius:20px;font-weight:700;margin-left:4px}
.badge.gem{background:#e3f5ea;color:var(--green)}
.badge.trap{background:#fceae6;color:var(--lantern)}
/* category grid */
.catgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(180px,1fr));gap:12px;margin-top:16px}
.catcard{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:16px;
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:4px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.catcard span{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-weight:600;color:var(--ink);font-size:1.05rem}
.catcard em{color:var(--muted);font-style:normal;font-size:.82rem}
.catcard:hover{text-decoration:none;border-color:var(--ochre)}
/* mini gems/traps */
.gembox,.trapbox{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:20px}
.gembox{border-left:4px solid var(--green)}.trapbox{border-left:4px solid var(--lantern)}
.minis{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:10px}
.mini{padding:6px 12px;border-radius:8px;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:500}
.mini.gem{background:#e3f5ea;color:var(--green)}
.mini.trap{background:#fceae6;color:var(--lantern)}
.gembox ol,.trapbox ol{margin:10px 0 0;padding-left:20px}
.gembox li,.trapbox li{margin:6px 0}
.gap{font-weight:700;font-family:Fraunces,serif}
.gemtx{color:var(--green)}.traptx{color:var(--lantern)}
/* affiliate */
.aff-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(210px,1fr));gap:14px;margin-top:16px}
.aff{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:18px;
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.aff b{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.1rem;color:var(--ink)}
.aff span{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}
.aff:hover{text-decoration:none;border-color:var(--ochre);transform:translateY(-2px);transition:.15s}
.things{background:#F7EEDD}
/* detail */
.detail{padding:40px 0}
.crumbs{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:10px}
.rankpill{display:inline-block;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;padding:8px 16px;border-radius:10px;font-family:Fraunces,serif}
.rankpill b{color:var(--gold);font-size:1.2rem}
.rankpill span{font-family:Inter,sans-serif;font-size:.8rem;color:#e8dcc7;font-weight:400;margin-left:6px}
.addr{color:var(--muted);margin:10px 0}
.det-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr;gap:24px;margin:22px 0}
@media(max-width:760px){.det-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.det-card img{width:100%;border-radius:14px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);border:1px solid var(--line)}
.det-side{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:20px}
.srctable{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin:6px 0 12px}
.srctable td{padding:8px 6px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.9rem}
.srctable td:first-child{font-weight:600}
.det-cta{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;margin-top:14px}
.callout{padding:14px 16px;border-radius:10px;font-size:.9rem;margin-top:12px}
.callout.gem{background:#e3f5ea;border-left:4px solid var(--green)}
.callout.trap{background:#fceae6;border-left:4px solid var(--lantern)}
.nearcards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(200px,1fr));gap:10px}
.nearcard{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:12px}
.nearcard b{display:block;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem}
.nearcard span{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}
.nearcard:hover{border-color:var(--ochre);text-decoration:none}
/* divergence table */
.divtable td{font-size:.88rem}
.divtable tr.hidden_gem{background:rgba(31,138,91,.06)}
.divtable tr.tourist_leaning{background:rgba(198,64,42,.06)}
.verdict{font-size:.75rem;font-weight:700;padding:2px 8px;border-radius:6px}
.verdict.hidden_gem{background:#e3f5ea;color:var(--green)}
.verdict.tourist_leaning{background:#fceae6;color:var(--lantern)}
.method-note{background:#F7EEDD;border-radius:12px;padding:18px 20px;margin:16px 0}
.summary{margin:20px 0}
/* faq */
.faq{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:4px 16px;margin:8px 0}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600;font-family:Fraunces,serif;padding:10px 0}
.faq p{margin:0 0 12px;color:#4a3d2c}
.dl{display:flex;gap:12px;margin:16px 0}
/* footer */
.site-footer{background:var(--ink);color:#e8dcc7;padding:40px 0 24px;font-size:.9rem}
.site-footer h4{color:#fff;font-size:1rem;margin:0 0 8px}
.site-footer a{color:var(--gold)}
.fcols{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.6fr 1fr 1fr;gap:28px}
@media(max-width:760px){.fcols{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.flogo{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.2rem;color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-bottom:8px}
.foot-links{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
/* footer contrast (WCAG) — muted text on dark bg needs to be light */
.site-footer .muted{color:#d8c9ad}
.site-footer p{color:#e4d7bd}
.copyright{border-top:1px solid #4a3d2c;margin-top:24px;padding-top:16px;color:#c9b896;font-size:.8rem}

/* wide wrap + detail TOC layout */
.wrap.wide{max-width:1000px}
.detail-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:190px 1fr;gap:44px;align-items:start}
.toc{position:sticky;top:80px}
.toc-inner{border-left:2px solid var(--line);padding-left:16px}
.toc-h{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;font-size:.7rem;font-weight:700;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 10px}
.toc-link{display:block;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted);padding:5px 0;border-left:2px solid transparent;margin-left:-18px;padding-left:16px}
.toc-link:hover{color:var(--ochre);text-decoration:none}
.toc-link.active{color:var(--ochre);font-weight:600;border-left-color:var(--ochre)}
.toc-cta{display:inline-block;margin-top:14px;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--ochre)}
@media(max-width:860px){.detail-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}.toc{display:none}}
/* slim ratings caption (replaces the old duplicate table) */
.ratecaption{margin:0 0 8px;font-size:.98rem;color:var(--ink);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 12px;align-items:center}
.ratecaption .rc{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;padding:5px 11px;white-space:nowrap}
.ratecaption .rc.t{background:#eaf7ef;border-color:#bfe6cd;color:#176b45}
.ratecaption .rc .n{color:var(--muted)}
.ratecaption b{font-weight:700}
/* GetYourGuide embed */
.gyg-embed{margin:18px 0;min-height:120px}

/* action chips (Google Maps / TripAdvisor) — links, not rating repeats */
.ratecaption .rc.map{background:#eef3fb;border-color:#cdddf3;color:#1a5fb4}
.ratecaption .rc.map:hover,.ratecaption .rc.t:hover{text-decoration:none;filter:brightness(.97)}
.maplink{color:var(--muted);font-size:.82rem}

/* horizontal jump-nav on long pages */
.jumpnav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 10px;align-items:center;margin-top:22px;font-size:.85rem}
.jumpnav span{color:var(--muted);font-weight:600}
.jumpnav a{background:rgba(255,255,255,.6);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:5px 13px;color:var(--ink);font-weight:500}
.jumpnav a:hover{background:#fff;border-color:var(--ochre);color:var(--ochre);text-decoration:none}

/* homepage two-column: sticky left TOC + main content */
.home-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:190px 1fr;gap:44px;align-items:start;padding-top:8px}
.home-main{min-width:0}
.hsec{padding:34px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.hsec:last-child{border-bottom:none}
.hsec-inner{max-width:100%}
.hsec.alt{background:transparent}
.hsec.things{background:transparent}
.home-main .lb-img img{width:100%;height:auto}
@media(max-width:860px){.home-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}.home-layout .toc{display:none}}
.addr a{color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.addr a:hover{color:var(--ochre)}